CYLINDER HEAD PAGE

A key component to any successful performance build is to have a set of properly flowing heads.  Now, there are a lot of considerations to make on this issue, but probably the primary issue you should deal with is the application you are looking at.  If you want to build a full-out race engine, then a low-buck port job will not solve any of your problems.  You will still have a restrictive flow of air into the cylinders, which reduce your engine's efficiency and power.

However, if what you want to do is build a street-oriented engine, going for a full-out, high-dollar port job will do exactly the same thing as going for a low-buck port job on your high-powered engine.  The name of the game is efficiency.  To develop power, you must make the heads efficient for your purpose.  With that in mind, I have embarked on probably the most expensive part of the engine build: cylinder heads.

Unfortunately, if you have a Magnum engine, you are already "pooped" on by most aftermarket manufacturers.  However, with a Magnum engine, Mopar Performance still loves you.  They offer Mopar R/T castings which can be had with larger ports, and flow more, out of the box, than the stock castings.  Also, they don't come with the inherent problems of the stock Magnum castings: thin walls (which crack).

Again... unfortunately, if you drive a Magnum V6, then you are "pooped" on by everyone, including Ma' Mopar.  There are no aftermarket castings, performance or otherwise.  Thus, we are restricted to modifying the factory castings in order to achieve maximum potential.  With that said, I sought to find a set of suitable factory castings, that weren't cracked or warped, in order to have them ported to turn this truck into a powerful street truck, with suitable fuel mileage (20+) to make it an all-around hauler.

Now that I've explained the situation regarding the Magnum V6 engines, the first step I took was to acquire a suitable set of heads for porting.  Regardless of whether you are going to use the heads for street or competition use, you must obtain a good set of heads.  What I mean by "a good set of heads" are heads that are relatively low mileage (not a prerequisite, but still something you should look at to minimize the possibility of cracks), that have not been subject to overheating or a blown engine.  A common problem with the stock Magnum engine castings is cracked heads.  The heads tend to crack between the seats (where the intake and exhaust valves sit above the combustion chamber).  If the heads are cracked, then you have expensive paperweights (and really heavy to boot).  That is why taking advantage of a low-mileage engine is a good proposition, since odds are, the engine never overheated, and is probably out of the truck due to someone's negligent driving or they did an engine swap.

Below are some pictures of the heads I will be using on my buildup.  These heads were actually found by someone else who decided against upgrading his engine, and sold off his excess parts (I just picked up the heads from him). 

    

 

Clean cylinder heads, prepped and ready for porting.

              

     

 

Cylinder Heads After Porting

Cylinder heads were ported by Mesa Balancing in Hialeah, Florida.  They also did a nice valve job on the heads, and installed all the parts I provided to them.  Below, I will include a list of all the parts that I used to build these heads.

                        

 

Cylinder Head Parts List

Here's a list of all the parts I used in building up these heads.  All of the parts were supplied by Mopar Performance, and I got all of them through one of the local dealerships here in Miami (because I had a connection and paid a lower price).  If you aren't planning on using nitrous or a supercharger, you can probably get away with not buying new valves.  However, if the valves have a lot of miles, are in bad shape, or you plan on running the engine on nitrous or a supercharger, you will be better off getting some stainless steel valves.  In total, plan on spending over $350 for all the parts (and this is just on a V6).

    Mopar R/T Valvesprings (P# P5249464) (1 set)

    Mopar R/T Retainers (P# P4452032) (1 set)

    Mopar R/T Keepers/Locks (P# P4529218) (2 sets)

    Mopar Performance 1.920 Intake Valves (P# P5249875)

    Mopar Performance 1.625 Exhaust Valves (P# P5249876)